Jill Courtemanche Millinery

Dipping into Indigo Dyeing

In The StudioJill CourtemancheComment

A finished “Antibes Fedora” I made from a Panama straw that I dipped in the Indigo.

Not long ago I had the pleasure of taking an Indigo Dyeing workshop at The French General in Los Angeles. Even though (in theory) I spend my days being creative in the studio, I love when I get the opportunity to delve into an artistic endeavor outside my studio. I learn so much from being around other creative women, seeing their process and how they approach working with materials. I always come back inspired and ready to create something new.

The class started with a quick history of indigo dyeing and a walk through the process of Shibori, a traditional Japanese dyeing method that uses indigo. In Shibori the fabric is folded and held in place with wooden resistors to create intricate designs. It is similar to a tie dye but rather than using ties to create the dye barriers, you use wooden plates or resistors and are able to get a much wider range of patterns and designs.

From there we created the dye baths with the indigo and set about manipulating our fabrics using both the Shibori techniques and some tie dye methods as well (pictures above).

I used a wide variety of fabrics to see how they would take to the dye, silk, linen, cotton and various hat bodies in sisal and Panama straw. I tried several different wooden resistors and folding methods along with some corks wound into the fabrics to create a circular deign.

As the day progressed and the dye bath diluted, the indigo color changed as well which I found interesting. The great thing about indigo dye is that the bath will hold for a day or two so if you're doing it at home you can dye things over several days and create more intricate patterns. You can see some of my finished pieces below drying on the line.

I’ve used the pieces I created to make a few “one off” hats as well as for linings in cut & sew hats. I also cut some of the larger pieces down to make a set of napkins and to wrap some gifts.

It was a really fun class, I can’t recommend it enough if you’re looking for a creative way to pass an afternoon. If you want to try your hand at Indigo Dyeing there a couple of upcoming workshops this Fall, October 11th & November 3rd at Bravo School of Art in San Diego and October 15th at French General in Los Angeles.

Millinery at FIT, "It's All About The Hat" Exhibit

Fashion, PressJill Courtemanche1 Comment

This is so fun for me, a true full circle moment! I am so thrilled that two of my hats were selected to be included in the new Millinery at FIT, “It’s All About The Hat” Exhibit showing in the Art & Design Gallery, June 15 - July 16, 2023. As a graduate of The Fashion Institute of Technology, it’s really exciting to be included in this amazingly, talented group of 40 alumni milliners.

The exhibit curators, Sarah Mullins, Ellen R. Lynch, Janet Linville and Sandra Walcott chose to include my “Le Profile” hattinator in pink and red and my “Béret à Ruban” mini-beret in black and white stripes in their selection of 60 hats.

Per the FIT website, “Millinery at FIT celebrates the art of hat-making. Since 1944, FIT has nurtured a passion for hats, with students mastering various styles, from fashionable felt hats to exquisite fur pieces. The program includes men's hats, bridal headpieces, and weather-appropriate headwear. In the late 1970s, millinery became a part of FIT's curriculum, led by renowned milliners. This program has boosted the hat-making industry in New York City and nationwide.

Graduates excel as entrepreneurs, designers, and creators of headwear for theater and dance. They are known for crafting exceptional hats for editorial shoots and personal use. This exhibition showcases the talent of over 40 alumni milliners, offering a glimpse into their styles and techniques. Visitors can explore the world of millinery, appreciate craftsmanship, and learn about its rich history and vibrant future.”

If you find yourself in New York city this summer, I encourage you to stop by to have a look and send me a picture!

Kentucky Derby 2023

Horse RacingJill CourtemancheComment

Our client wearing her custom “Le Profile” hattinator featured in Garden & Gun’s, “Dazzling Hats and More at Churchill Downs”, May 8, 2023 - Photographed by Nerissa Sparkman

The couple of months leading up to the Kentucky Derby is the busiest and most fun time of the year!

For me, Derby Season starts in early January when production begins on new designs and all the ideas I have had percolating in my head start to come to life. I spend time in the fall sourcing new materials and commissioning new hat blocks so I can get to work right after the holidays.

Once the samples are finished, usually around mid-March, I open the studio for custom appointments and begin traveling around the country to do Trunk Shows.

I always encourage clients to bring in the outfit(s) they plan to wear so I can help them choose the perfect style hat, match the colors and tailor the trimmings to their outfit.

The chaos is real and it is always a mad dash to get all of the hats made and shipped in time but I wouldn’t have it any other way.

I love working one on one with clients to create their perfect, custom hat and it’s so fun to receive pictures of clients in their finished “looks” at the track on Derby day and in the weeks following.

Connecting with so many amazing women and getting to be a small part of the fun and joyous occasions in their lives is the best part of what I do!


A few of our favorite custom hat and dress pairings, from left to right: pink and red “Le Profil” hattinator with Lela Rose dress, yellow satin “Dahlia” headband with Simkhai dress, pink and white “Canotier” hat with Lela Rose dress, purple “Contraire” saucer with floral Zimmerman dress, aqua, red and white “Le Profile” hattinator with Edeline Lee outfit, fuchsia and white “Éclat de la Lune” fascinator with Express shoe, “Garden Party Sylvie” hat wit floral Zimmerman dress, natural and red “Le Profile” hattinator with Zhivago dress.


The best part of the whole process is seeing everyone all dressed up and enjoying their day at the track!

Flavor of Fashion Podcast

PressJill Courtemanche1 Comment

I recently had the pleasure of being a guest on the Flavor of Fashion Podcast hosted by Belle Barreiro Seiden. We chatted about how I got into millinery, my time at The Fashion Institute of Technology and working in New York City. We also discussed how I started my brand and projects I have worked on over the years. A real deep dive into all the things that have brought me to where I am today! You can listen to the episode on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.

My favorite part of the interview was reconnecting with Belle who interned for me at my Solana Beach store. We have kept in touch over the years even working together to fabricate a chic, denim cowboy hat she designed as part of her Utopian Denim line while studying at FIDM. After finalizing her materials, she came into the studio and selected the forms and base layers she wanted to use and I blocked and stitched the hat for her. You can see some photos of the finished look below as well as some process photos as the hat came together.