Jill Courtemanche Millinery

Fashion

Dior, in Paris!

FashionJill CourtemancheComment

Above - The dress worn by opera singer, Axelle Saint-Cirel to sing the French national anthem at the 2024 Paris Olympics Opening Ceremonies.

One of the through-lines of my year has been the designer, Christian Dior. I have found myself on an unexpected and delightful deep dive into the designer’s life and work that culminated this summer with a visit to La Galerie Dior in Paris.

It was such a joy to see the workmanship and details of the clothes up close and even more exciting to find that they had recently updated the exhibit to include the dresses the house created for the female performers in the 2024 Paris Olympic Opening Ceremonies.

But let’s rewind to the beginning. It all started this spring while visiting fellow milliner, Cassie MacGregor for our annual Kentucky Derby Trunk Show in Dallas. One evening we decided to start watching the wonderful Apple TV series, The New Look together. This dramatic story follows designers Christian Dior and Coco Chanel as they navigate the Paris of World War II and it is filled with the most gorgeous fashion.

I was familiar with most of the Coco Chanel history, but the Dior storyline was new to me. As I continued the series back at home, I found myself rewatching episodes to focus on the clothes because my initial viewing had me riveted to the story and parsing out which details were true, and which had been embellished for the show.

Above - A selection of dresses embellished with flowers from La Galerie Dior exhibit.

It’s a great watch if you are looking for something to binge this winter break and there is talk of a second season coming that follows the designers post war period (fingers crossed).

From there, Cassie surprised me with a copy of the book, Miss Dior: A Wartime Story of Courage and Couture by Justine Picardie. A beautiful dive into the relationship between Christian Dior and his beloved sister and muse Catherine. It tells the deeper story of Catherine’s work with the French Resistance and the aftereffects of her capture by the Gestapo and eventual deportation to Ravensbrück. The siblings deep, emotional bond and how Christian’s empathy and love for Catherine brought about the foundation for his New Look collection and signature scent, Miss Dior. The book filled in the historical gaps of Dior’s story and expanded upon the design inspiration he found in his mother’s garden.

After that, I was lucky enough to find myself headed to Paris and visiting La Galerie Dior while I was there was at the top on my list (after croissants, of course). The exhibit is fantastic with a timeline that explores his early years and military service, his work as an illustrator and milliner, his time designing for Lucien Lelong and eventually the creation of his own fashion house and some of the work of the designers that have taken the helm for the House of Dior after his retirement. It really brings the world of Dior to life in the most beautiful way and weaves the influence that flowers had on his designs to life. If you find yourself in Paris, I recommend getting tickets to see his stunning work in person.

Pictured above, a few of the ensembles from the exhibit that resonated with me:

Row 1: A daytime ensemble from the “New Look” collection with a signature hat, A front & side view of an evening dress with a uniquely placed flower

Row 2: Two black daytime ensembles utilizing layered textures, An evening dress with a delicate lace overlay, A close up of a hand-made lace and satin flower accenting a dress bodice

Row 3: A more modern suit created for Dior by Yves Saint Laurent incorporating a hooded jacket, An extravagant evening gown of floral printed silk (the back of the dress can be seen in the mirror), The beaded dress Celine Dion wore for the 2024 Paris Olympic Opening Ceremonies

Row 4: Three cotton and muslin dress prototypes from one of my favorite rooms in the exhibit which was made up of all white prototypes and works in progress with the designers markings and embelishments

Pictured above: Part of the exhibit featured a cut out in the floor to a birds-eye view of the designer’s millinery workroom with hat making supplies, hat boxes and finished hats, A 3D printed fedora made to look like woven straw, A quote from Christian Dior on the success of his millinery, A crin mask created for the house by Stephen Jones, A sketch by Christian Dior of a tulle shawl and gloves, A wider view of the “white” room in the exhibit made up of cotton muslin samples, Me and my daughter in front of the colorful staircase display at La Galerie Dior.

Ranch Ready

FashionJill CourtemancheComment

I recently fell into a rabbit hole of western wear and came out inspired and ready to head to the ranch or at least head out for a night of line dancing with the girls!

A little backstory, my husband and I received an invitation to attend a Western Gala and I had nothing in my closet that was even close to fitting the dress code. What followed was endless texting with my best friend in Texas, hours spent researching outfits online that would feel western while fitting seamlessly into my current wardrobe and of course several cowgirl hat prototypes that felt fun and elevated.

A few of those cowgirl hats made it into production and are now available as part of my current collection. I thought it could be fun to showcase them along with the outfits that inspired them.

Check them out below and let me know what you think!

Classic With a Pop of Red

Hat: Lynette by Jill Courtemanche Millinery

Dress: Sleeveless Fringed Dress by Dolce & Gabbana

Boots: Embellished Cowboy Booties by I.N.C

Bag: Marcie Suede Shoulder Bag by Chloé

Earrings: Diamond & Ruby Briolette Earrings Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle

Bracelet: Trombone Link Bracelet by Doyle & Doyle

Ready to Dance the night away

Hat: Western Laurent by Jill Courtemanche Millinery

Dress: Farah Smocked Mini by Veronica Beard

Boots: Maggie Crème by Miron Crosby

Bag: Merine Denim Quilted Bag by Isabel Marant

Earrings: Croissant Dôme Hoops by Mejuri

The Romantic Cowgirl

Hat: Lynette by Jill Courtemanche Millinery

Dress: Axana Maxi Dress by Ba&sh

Boots: Duerto Ankle Boots by Isabel Marant

Bag: Lou Camera Bag by Saint Laurent

Earrings: Basket Drop Earrings Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle

Ring: Victorian Turquoise & Diamond Ring by Doyle & Doyle

Millinery at FIT, "It's All About The Hat" Exhibit

Fashion, PressJill Courtemanche1 Comment

This is so fun for me, a true full circle moment! I am so thrilled that two of my hats were selected to be included in the new Millinery at FIT, “It’s All About The Hat” Exhibit showing in the Art & Design Gallery, June 15 - July 16, 2023. As a graduate of The Fashion Institute of Technology, it’s really exciting to be included in this amazingly, talented group of 40 alumni milliners.

The exhibit curators, Sarah Mullins, Ellen R. Lynch, Janet Linville and Sandra Walcott chose to include my “Le Profile” hattinator in pink and red and my “Béret à Ruban” mini-beret in black and white stripes in their selection of 60 hats.

Per the FIT website, “Millinery at FIT celebrates the art of hat-making. Since 1944, FIT has nurtured a passion for hats, with students mastering various styles, from fashionable felt hats to exquisite fur pieces. The program includes men's hats, bridal headpieces, and weather-appropriate headwear. In the late 1970s, millinery became a part of FIT's curriculum, led by renowned milliners. This program has boosted the hat-making industry in New York City and nationwide.

Graduates excel as entrepreneurs, designers, and creators of headwear for theater and dance. They are known for crafting exceptional hats for editorial shoots and personal use. This exhibition showcases the talent of over 40 alumni milliners, offering a glimpse into their styles and techniques. Visitors can explore the world of millinery, appreciate craftsmanship, and learn about its rich history and vibrant future.”

If you find yourself in New York city this summer, I encourage you to stop by to have a look and send me a picture!